On our way back home from Harmanli, we passed through a most amazing place, the mosque-church in Uzundjovo. It is one of the oldest Buglarian churches, and has a really intense and interesting history. It really pays off to visit this inspiring place, and to listen to its keepers' devoped story.
The original church was build in 1500, then destroyed, and in 1593 a mosque was built upon the remaining walls. In 1906, it is again turned into an orthodox church. Its unique architechture and interior hold numerous symbolic meanings, revealed to the curious visitor by the incredible Bay Dencho, a devoter keper of the temple, who has spent numerous hours in decipehring the "hidden code" imprinted in the iconostasis, the wall decorations and the exterior of the church.
His melodious voice will tell you an amazing story about the temple's architect and constructor, a semi-legendary master Lalyo (tulip), who has imprinted a number of tulips in his construction, leaving a vast deal of messages to his successors for contemplation and deciphering. The master was a turk of Bulgarian origin, and the mosque he build was not turned to Mecca, but followed the Cristian canon, and the entrance was directed to south-east.
Bay Dencho, a devote believer, who is not however a religious fanatic, will share his interpretation of the temple's messages - a story of religious tolerance and inclusion, a deep understanding of the singularity of god within all world religions, and a somewhat mystic totally unorthodox belief about the capacity of the human soul to reincarnate, and to expand and include clashing view and beliefs in its on-going worldly struggle for perfection. It is really amazing to listen to this man, who is definitely deeply religious, and still has a unique ability to internalize his beliefs, and make them deeply practical, relevant and valuable for his own existence. I only wish I can claim the same degree of ownership over a clear, organized and internalized value-code and moral system to guide me and determine who I am in life.
The church features a number of first-time cultural treasures - like the first glagolic prayer in an iconostasis. At present, this is the biggest village-church in Bulgaria, and you should definitely go and see it!!!
Monday, December 7, 2009
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